London Fashion Week: Light in the Chaos

This article was originally written by Demi Karanikolaou in Greek for Harper’s Bazaar Greece. You can find it here.

London, the city once synonymous with rebellious creativity, British style, and sartorial excellence, finds itself at a crossroads. With the economy in turmoil and many industries struggling, a change is evident: London Fashion Week is struggling to hold its ground against the powerhouses of Paris and Milan. Indeed, with luxury consumers tightening their belts and high-profile brands like Victoria Beckham and Stella McCartney choosing to present elsewhere, the UK capital’s schedule feels noticeably leaner, reduced to a four-day spectacle. The absence of many global buyers, stylists, and editors proves this shift in priorities. Yet, amid the uncertainty, London still pulses with creative energy, especially if one looks in the most unexpected places. In a city where creativity refuses to be stifled, London remains the fashion industry’s go-to place for fresh talent and new ideas, thriving on raw ingenuity and shaping the future with profound resilience through its boundary-pushing designers.

Classic Versus Avant-Garde: The Duality of London’s Runway

Perhaps no one showcased that aversion to the austerity mood better than Greek designer Dimitra Petsa, who returned with a confident collection blending sensuality and structure. Petsa’s signature “wet-look” was reimagined through provocative lace elements, sculpted vegan leather separates, and sensual tailoring, striking a balance between innovation and continuity for the London-based brand. Petsa managed to stay true to her roots and make us fall in love, despite the current circumstances in London, with a print of the designer's own lips appearing throughout.

Another positive surprise in the LFW schedule was Daniel Fletcher’s first collection for Mithridate. The British designer redefined preppy elegance with expertly tailored basics and dreamy neutrals. His pieces incorporated chic outerwear, embellished gowns, and everyday clothing into an overall cool but wearable aesthetic.

At Noon by Noor, femininity took center stage, embracing an ultra-classic but almost vampy aesthetic. The brand leaned into timeless silhouettes such as pencil skirts, universally flattering dresses, and sophisticated outerwear—a contrast to the extravagance often associated with emerging designers. Simone Rocha was equally feminine, albeit more intricate and niche.

On the accessories front, British footwear brand Malone Souliers stayed true to its ethos of classic craftsmanship, delivering a collection designed for longevity rather than seasonal spectacle, stating that they are “proud to curate classic designs that will look as good in decades to come as they do on the first day you wear them” - something all consumers will appreciate in this economy. With that in mind, they translated their signature silhouettes into new colors and materials but added a few new bags and statement-embellished heels to enhance their repertoire.

Emerging Talent

But if more established brands brought a sense of commercial stability, continuation, and evolution, it was London’s emerging talent that electrified the scene. Central Saint Martins, the city’s legendary breeding ground for new talent, showcased the work of many designers worth noting.

Lucas Moretti’s intricate, all-black ensembles stood out for their mixture of classic and new elements. Meanwhile, Grete Henriette’s show turned fashion into performance art, staging an ethereal presentation in a church setting. With a celebrity following that includes Tyla, Lil Nas X, and Saweetie, her barely-there, jewel-encrusted creations pushed the boundaries of couture and stagewear alike.

Is glamour the answer to pain? “For me, glamour is about transformation—elevating fashion into something rare, powerful, and evocative. London has always had that magic, but we need to bring it back with boldness, craftsmanship, and a sense of grandeur that truly captivates”, Henriette mentioned backstage.

In another part of the city, Poet Lab, the brainchild of Italian designer Giuseppe Iaciofano, offered a more conceptual take on fashion’s future. His deconstructed, geometric tailoring reimagined a unisex wardrobe through a poetic, avant-garde lens.

“In my opinion, deconstruction is the perfect answer to reshaping silhouettes, especially ones that may have made people feel uncomfortable about their bodies due to gender ideals. Everyone can wear my brand, no matter what,” Iaciofano remarked post-show. By dismantling traditional garments and reconstructing them into striking new forms, Poet Lab carved out a space for those seeking fashion as a means of self-expression rather than mere flattery.

The Trends That Defined LFW AW25

Despite its uncertain footing, London Fashion Week continued to be a breeding ground for emerging trends. This season, designers leaned into nostalgia and craftsmanship, as seen in the brocades of Burberry, the classic preppy styles of Mithridate, or the traditional femininity of Noon by Noor, reflecting both a longing for permanence and a resistance to fast fashion’s transience.

A return to black was evident throughout, but it often came with hints of gilded glamour, adding gold accents to evoke a sense of opulence and resilience amid economic hardship, as seen at Harris Reed.

Wearable art made its mark too, with Grete Henriette’s jewel-encrusted ensembles and Petsa’s vegan leather sculpted pieces, proving that fashion as an art form remains a London signature.

The return of outerwear was unmistakable, with most designers, like Erdem and Burberry—who went back to their roots—championing timeless and elegant coats and capes, reinforcing a shift towards investment pieces over transient statements.

On the street style scene, fashionistas chose plenty of tartan and bold accessories, such as ties, to add an air of theatrical sophistication to the backdrop of this season’s collections.

London: A City That Refuses to Fade

Yes, London Fashion Week may feel quieter, stripped of some of its former grandeur, but the spirit of innovation remains. While Paris and Milan may carry prestige and heritage as their weapons, London thrives on reinvention. It is here that the industry looks to when searching for what’s next—where risk-takers and rule-breakers reshape the narrative of fashion.

In the chaos of economic uncertainty, London stands as the light of possibility. After all, it is here where Alexander Lee McQueen used his unemployment money to change the industry—you never know when talent will strike. And that, more than any grandiose show or celebrity-packed front row, is what keeps the world coming back to London.