The female gaze of Dimitra Petsa: Di Petsa SS25

This article was originally written by Demi Karanikolaou in Greek for Madame FIgaro Greece. You can find it here.

It is hard to deny the strong female gaze evident throughout Dimitra Petsa’s work. Known for her female-centric narrative and ongoing theme of pleasure, viewed through a complex exploration of Greek culture, the London based Greek designer has forged deep friendships and relationships with women who have strong voices and unique beauty - among them models Nassia Matsa and Tsunaina. 

In next season’s SS25 collection titled “My Body is a Labyrinth”, Minoan culture serves as the canvas for this exploration: after all it was indeed Princess Ariadne who sent Theseus in the labyrinth to kill the Minotaur, with just a plan and a guiding thread. Without her, the myth would simply not exist. “You can really lose yourself in the labyrinth,” said Dimitra Petsa backstage. But the theme presented goes way deeper than the myth itself: “For me the Minotaur represents our inner darkness, the side of us that is in pain. We need to face our inner Minotaur in order to heal it ” she added.

And as if Ariadne herself influenced the designer, the collection was indeed equally female-centric. Both womenswear and menswear oozed female hedonism and sexuality, with some garments sporting strategically placed pockets in trousers and skirts that allowed the models to mimic female masturbation, while they walked in a proudly lustful manner. Some corsets and dresses exposed female breasts, taking inspiration from the famous ancient Minoan dresses, but updating them for the modern fashion audience. From signature Di Petsa complex gowns and separates, to more wearable pieces, all garments explored self pleasure and mythology in an equally strong manner but also showcased a clear interest from the brand to create a healthy balance between couture and more commercial pieces. Menstruation blood also made its appearance on the runway of Di Petsa, a brand known for its passion for wetness and liquids. “ I aim to change the fact that there is not enough spotlight on menstruation - the current narratives about women continue to be dictated by men” Dimitra mentioned. 

Male sensuality was also very much present. Everyone gasped, when peaking through the darkness, a light bearer entered the room wearing very few garments that revealed a physique similar to that of Greek Gods. A different male model later appeared wearing separates from Dipetsa’s signature wet look that also exposed his perfectly defined V line. 

Accessories varied from gold crowns, referencing burial shrouds from Ancient Greece, to Dipetsa’s signature Tama bag, inspired by votive offerings left in Orthodox Greek churches by praying mothers and sisters. But perhaps the most unexpected accessory of the season was presented in the form of tan lines and sunburn, reinterpreted as a fashion accessory by using make up.  “I like the idea of how the touch of the summer sun feels like a gentle stroke on your body, it is something almost erotic” said Dimitra Petsa. However, that being said, some of the models also appeared as if they were hiding their faces from the same strong Greek sun. Was this a reference to good things that can become painful, if they get too intense? The line between pain and pleasure is very fine indeed.

At times the Opening Ceremony of the Athens 2004 Olympics also came to mind: the choreography of models and their movements, the music and background terracotta colour of the venue evoked that memory. It would be difficult to miss the references to Greece all throughout Dipetsa’s work - from straightforward ones, such as Ariadne's thread, to those more hidden, such as the inner darkness portrayed in the tragic figure of the Minotaur. Indeed, the brand references Greece in its many iterations, almost as if becoming the connecting cultural thread of fashion between Ancient, Byzantine and contemporary Greece. “ I have noticed that Greece is oftentimes depicted in culture as a very one sided story of antiquity and idealised utopia and that is not the whole picture” said Dimitra Petsa, “I want to truly portray the complexity of this rich culture”. 

Diversity continued to be a major theme, as Di Petsa is amongst the most inclusive brands in the London fashion calendar, with people of all ages, shapes and genders, joining the celebration of the feminine divine. Sadly, similar casting choices are once again becoming more rare in the post ozempic world, where we see a decrease in the representation of plus size models on the global runways. “We are in the top five brands in terms of inclusivity, but I find that to be troubling as we are still a small brand and there are some massive companies in that list” Dimitra Petsa highlighted.  

Compared to conglomerates like LVMH or the local Burberry, Di Petsa might indeed be a small brand, but it has become a major player in the London fashion scene for a reason. The designer is drawing inspiration from her own culture and is exploring it in unconventional ways. Her innovative materials accentuate traditional silhouettes, making them appear fresher than they have in millenia. However, most of all, Dimitra Petsa’s genuine love for female nature shines through her work. Unconventional and unapologetic, confident in herself, her sexuality, her sisterhood and her roots.