The Outsider's Perspective | A diverse workforce is the secret weapon for fashion companies
A conversation with Jamie Gill, Founder of the organisation “The Outsiders Perspective” on the representation of people of colour in the fashion industry.
This article was originally written by Demi Karanikolaou in Greek for Harper’s Bazaar Greece. You can find it here.
The world of fashion, as elaborate, lighthearted and glamorous as it might seem, has always been based on the hard work of people coming from all walks of life. However, not everyone has been equally celebrated or included. That is becoming even more obvious after big events such as the Black Lives Matter movement of 2020 or the current tough fiscal environment of 2024 that has given light to so many inequalities.
Despite that, data shows that a diverse workforce seems to be a secret weapon of success for businesses since it can help them understand our ever evolving society. In order to discover more on the topic, I met up with Jamie Gill on a summer afternoon. A true expert on the subject, fashion veteran and ex-CEO of Roksanda, Jamie is currently a Board Member of the British Fashion Council and leader of the organisation “The Outsiders Perspective”. The timing also happened to coincide with the racist marches that shook the UK and made thousands reevaluate their choices. Jamie is the force behind the Outsiders Perspective, a nonprofit organisation focused on increasing representation amongst people of colour in the fashion industry through its incubation programme, which is aimed at helping BIPOC professionals transition into operational fashion roles.
Where are we in terms of inclusion in the fashion industry? I asked Gill. “The conversation about diversity has been going on in the corporate world in one way or another for more than 25 years, but it was only after 2020 that businesses realised diversity is truly needed” he replied. “We quickly saw fashion changing towards more diversity in magazine covers, fashion shows, press releases and ad campaigns. Indeed, visuals and aesthetics went first, in a very typical manner for the fashion industry. As a result, in terms of visuals we are now seeing more ethnic representation, but that is not enough.” Gill’s statements were not a surprise, as anyone in the industry would know that the higher you look in the corporate ladder, the more likely you would be to find an older white man. “The truth is that after the Black Lives Matter movement, leaders were hired overnight almost from guilt.” added Gill. “ A move that, in all honesty, looked more like a press release, rather than an actual shift in strategy and it had no budget to support big changes. The initial expectations were illogical. We needed real resources, and a solid timeframe. Currently a lot of these actions are not working or producing true results. Companies need to ask themselves if they are fundamentally changing culture. Has driving diversity for the workforce via hiring become a priority? Almost five years post 2020, very little has changed, certainly in the C-Suite”. I asked Gill to elaborate on the latter statement from his vast experience. “Leadership positions still mainly consist of white straight males, while fashion companies also usually assign the powerful role of a Creative Director to white gay men. I believe that very little will shift unless we see change on the level of chairmen. So far, fashion is welcoming acceptance, but only up to a certain point. Yes, there is certainly progress, but not all the way up. How many people have we seen in managerial roles since Sinead O’Burke, who is queer and identifies herself as a little person? Fashion is an industry that should be leading in this wave of change, especially because it is so good at building brand equity, desirability and creating cultural changes.”
Adding salt to the injury, it is an indisputable fact that the actual consumer of fashion is diverse in many ways, including race, sexuality or gender - something that is continuously unreflected in terms of hiring. “I would agree” Gill said. “The actual clientele of the fashion industry is very diverse. The luxury industry for example is seeing massive growth in India, while China is still a driving force for luxury spending & consumption. And let’s not forget that LGBT people, wherever they are in the world, are certainly buying a lot of fashion items. So if the consumer base is diverse, why aren’t we seeing the employee base reflecting that?” In truth, even if racial reasons would not force fashion companies to change their mindset, then generations certainly will. “As Gen Z is becoming more prominent, brand guidelines will inevitably have to change” said Gill. “When you look at the crucial generation of Gen Z, specifically in London, 57% of them are considered to be ethnically diverse, meaning they represent the majority, not the minority. As a result, the move to a workforce that accurately reflects society through diversity is more important than ever.”
Big changes require equally big resources. Have we seen any data to support that a diverse workforce can prove to bring good business? I asked. “Indeed, in fact, the McKinsey reports show that businesses with diverse leadership financially outperform 39% of their peers in 266 listed companies globally and in all industries and supporting data gets stronger every year. Any corporate leadership that chooses to move towards a strong DEI strategy will actually benefit their business. Lean in the conversation and listen to your customers”.
Gill plans to continue creating a wave of change through the Outsiders Perspective, with its 18 brand partners and many curious people from outside the industry who reach out in order to explore a career in fashion. “We are speaking to ethnic people who always wanted to get into the industry, but they were excluded. However, nowadays there are more and more avenues for people to get into the industry. There are experienced hires with transferable skills, such as necessary technological capabilities which fashion lacks. Our candidates can provide them”.
Yet, as anyone in the industry would be able to tell, fashion is not a place for the faint of heart. How does The Outsiders Perspective scan eager candidates to make sure they are prepared? “We make sure to ask our candidates the hard questions: Are you bringing the necessary skills? Do you really love fashion? Have you done your homework?” Gill replied and added “Having said that, I am excited for the The Outsiders Perspective to work with many more brands and get more skilled candidates hired in the industry. We are creating a BIPOC forum and a community for like-minded people to support further our initiatives."
The day of our meeting also happened to coincide with the news of racist marches across the UK, however Gill held a strong stance against any panic: “Despite the recent troubles and incidents, you cannot be scared in London as an ethnic minority. Our allies are coming out in the streets, something that has warmed our hearts. Yes, fascists exist, but they are the minority, and often act out of ignorance and misinformation. We are experiencing a period where there is hope in humanity, like we have never seen before. Years of education have shown so many people the truth”.
Reaching the end of our discussion, I could not resist the urge to ask Jamie for a comment on the overall London fashion scene: “The London fashion scene is struggling, which is a pity” he replied. “If I could ask for one thing that would be for the prominent British brands that are holding shows outside of London to return and create some buzz. Stella, Victoria, Westwood, McQueen, just come and show in London for a year. Let’s join Burberry in creating a community for our city that can become a part of your heritage.” Our conversation left a lot of information to unpack, but I wanted to know if Jamie could summarise his vision: “If you are a leader coming from a diverse background and find yourself in a position of power, it is your responsibility to help and be a brand ambassador for change” he said. I left our meeting feeling quite energised and enthusiastic, but also feeling a stronger sense of purpose.